How to make a spiral topiary

By Jerri Farris
eHow Contributing Writer

Spiral topiaries make attractive additions to a yard, especially flanking an entrance. Making a topiary is a simple matter of careful and continued pruning. You need to start with a full, cone-shaped evergreen. One variety that works especially well is a Dwarf Alberta Spruce, Picea Glauco "Conica."

Things You'll Need:

• Cone-shaped evergreen Masking tape Pruning shears

1. Step 1

   Wind the masking tape around the tree in a spiral. On an average sized evergreen, you want to divide the tree into three sections. Position the tape so the sections get thicker toward the base.

2. Step 2

   Starting at the top, use pruning shears to cut back the branches above and below the tape. At the very top, aim for removing all but a 2 or 3-inch strip of greenery.

3. Step 3

   As you work your way down, decrease the number of branches you remove so the spiral widens gradually toward the base.

4. Step 4

   Remove the masking tape and trim the remaining branches to emphasize the spiral shape. Create smooth, rounded edges and a graceful swirl. Protect the topiary from strong sunlight for its first two weeks.

5. Step 5

   Prune your topiary each spring. Shade it from strong sunlight for two weeks after each pruning.

How to Espalier an Apple Tree

Espalier is a method of training and pruning a tree or shrub, forcing it to grow flat against a wall or a free-standing trellis. Although it originated in the Middle Ages as a way to grow fruit inside the safety of castle walls, many non-fruiting plants, including yews, cotoneaster, magnolias and dogwood can be espaliered.

Espalier has a great deal of ornamental value — few garden scenes are more stunning than a blooming apple tree growing against a brick wall —but it's also an effective technique for producing an ample crop of fruit in a small space. You don't need an orchard to grow apple trees. A sunny wall, a special pruning technique and patience are all you need to espalier an apple tree.

To encourage substantial fruit production, prune with two objectives in mind. First, train the tree to the classic flattened, horizontal shape of espalier. Second, encourage the growth of short fruiting stems, or spurs, that will ultimately produce apples.

Mail-order catalogs are often the best source for selecting trees to espalier. Popular varieties hardy to the Chicago area include 'Northern Spy', 'Golden Delicious', 'Liberty', 'Redcourt' and 'Holiday'. Others that have shown extreme hardiness and good disease resistance include 'Honeycrisp', 'Sweet Sixteen' and 'State Fair'. Some varieties, such as 'Golden Delicious', are self-fertile, meaning they do not need another apple variety with which to pollinate. Others, however, will require a nearby different apple variety to complete pollination and produce fruit.

Start with a tree that has been grafted onto dwarf rootstock. All commercial apple trees are grafted onto roots from selected hardy apple trees. Some rootstock is dwarfing and will produce small trees. Other rootstock produces full-size trees. If you espalier a full-size tree, it will have much thicker, heavier trunks and branches. Catalogs will indicate the type of rootstock used. Two desirable rootstocks to look for are the semi-dwarf M27 or the mini-dwarf MAL27.

You will begin with a 2- to 3-foot sapling, or whip, that is still very pliable and has not yet grown any side branches. It can be planted against a wall, a sturdy trellis or other flat surface. The wall will have an added advantage of absorbing heat to hasten ripening.

The following steps will get you on your way to creating an apple-bearing espalier.

• String three to four rows of galvanized wire horizontally on the wall or trellis, about 2 feet apart.
• Plant the 3-foot whip in the middle of the structure. Find the lowest bud on the whip and prune off the wood above it. That bud should be about 2 feet from the base of the whip and coincide with the lowest wire.
• Lateral branches will begin to grow out and away from the cut. Tie one end of a bamboo cane to the first horizontal wire and the other end to the young branch, pulling it down toward the wire and training it to grow along the wire. It usually takes two growing seasons to get branches to grow at right angles to the main vertical trunk.
• In the meantime, the whip will continue to grow upward from the original bud you located when you made the first cut. Let it grow to the second horizontal wire and again make a cut above a bud. When lateral branches grow from that point, repeat the process of attaching them to the horizontal wires.
• A typical espalier is 6 to 8 feet tall, with three to four sets of horizontal branches. Your goal is to keep the tree in bounds. Fruit yields will be proportionately much greater from an espalier than from a full-size tree.

It generally takes five to seven years to create a completed espalier structure and harvest fruit. Until that time, prune out any developing fruit. Your goal in the first few years is to encourage the tree to put all of its energy into growing branches that establish the basic framework. Once that happens, all future pruning is to encourage fruit production. Apples on all trees, whether espalier or not, are borne on short stems called spurs. As buds and new shoots form along a lateral branch, prune them back to a point close to the branch where five leaves cluster around the stem. This encourages the buds on the bottom half of the lateral branch to produce fruit. This pruning will also remove the end buds that are more likely to produce leaves and stems.

Before attempting espalier, visit the Chicago Botanic Garden's Fruit & Vegetable Garden to study the many examples of mature fruit espaliers trained against brick walls and free-standing trellises. There is also a display of non-espalier apple trees planted in a large semicircle, with dwarf species in front and the full-sized trees in back. The dwarf trees are examples of the type of apple tree you could use to make a perfect espalier in your sunny yard.

Chicago Botanic Garden

http://www.chicagobotanic.org/plantinfo/how-to/espalier.php

Saving Geraniums over the winter

Before a killing frost, many gardeners save their geraniums by bringing them indoors. Some people grow them as houseplants. Others let them go dormant, storing them in a basement or cellar. Zonal, scented, and ivy geraniums can be overwintered indoors. Here is the procedure for saving them year after year.

To store them dormant, dig them before a killing frost. Remove excess soil from the roots and cut about half of the top growth off. Store them separately in paper bags or potato sacks in a cool basement or cellar. Humidity level is the key to storage. Warm dry conditions will dry them out, so check them monthly. Soaking them periodically in water for several hours will ensure that they don’t dry out. Repot them in the spring.

If you have bright light in your home, you can continue to grow your geraniums throughout the winter. They need a relatively cool location (60-75 degrees) with bright light. Tip cuttings (about three inches long) can also be taken before a freeze. Using pruning shears or scissors, cut individual stems from the geranium. Remove the lower leaves from each cutting and dip them in a rooting hormone powder. Let the cuttings dry out for at least a day. Tip cuttings may be rooted in coarse sand, perlite, or vermiculite. You may also plant them directly into a well drained potting soil. Water them thoroughly, and place them near a bright window or under artificial lights. Once roots have formed, they can be transplanted into individual pots and cared for as regular houseplants. Fertilize them on a monthly basis as new growth appears.

The easiest method to save geraniums is to bring your best potted plants indoors. Before they are brought inside, cut about half of the top growth off. Check them for insects, looking at the underside of the leaves for signs of insect damage. Put them in a cool, bright location for the winter months. Water them regularly as needed.

When danger of frost is gone, you may take your geraniums outdoors. Begin biweekly fertilizer applications with a water soluble fertilizer. Repot your saved geraniums as needed.

Lynn Loughary, LLoughar@oznet.ksu.edu
County Extension Agent, Horticulture
Wyandotte County, Kansas
Kansas State University Research and Extension

Tim & Kristie's Garden

June Meeting

We toured Aaron and Kala's gardens and then went to Europe Park for our meeting and refreshments.

Spring is tomato planting time!

By Dennis L. Patton, M.S., County Horticulture Agent, K-State Research and Extension/Johnson County


Tomato planting is the moment many gardeners wait for each spring. Tomato transplants thrive best planted after the first of May when the soil temperatures are warm and the danger of frost has passed. Successful planting tips can lead to a summer of success.

How to properly plant a tomato transplant is often a topic of discussion. It seems that everyone has his or her own formula for success. Some recommend planting the tomato plant deeply in the soil so strong roots develop along the stem, while others prefer to lay the plant on its side. Both methods will work, but the laying on the side may be better according to research. Planting deeply may restrict the valuable oxygen needed for quick growth. Plants respond better if the same oxygen conditions can be maintained when they are set out. For this reason, it is best to plant in a more horizontal direction keeping the root system shallow. Vigorous roots soon develop along the stem for added growth.

Should you use a starter fertilizer or transplant solution for quick establishment of tomato transplants? Recent research has shown that starter fertilizers for transplants may be unnecessary. Research has found that plants grown in fertile and warm soils in the spring respond the same with or without the transplant solution. Avoid the use if planting under good conditions. On the other hand, if the transplants are stressed coming from the garden center, then a quick boost of a starter solution may be helpful.

In addition to the different planting methods, tomato gardeners have very strong opinions about which variety to grow. Many use the old standbys for continued success. Kansas State University, along with other regional universities, conducts variety trials to determine the best of the best. K-State has recently updated its list of recommended varieties for Kansas.

Early season varieties include:

• Sun Start
• Sunny
• Daybreak

Main season recommended types are:

• Mountain Spring
• Mountain Fresh
• Merced
• Celebrity
• Floralina
• Jet Star
• Sunmaster
• Sun Leaper
• Carolina Gold (yellow variety — give it a try!)

Cherry types with good yields include:

• Cherry Grande
• Mountain Belle
• Sweet Chelsea

Paste types are:

• Roma
• Plum Dandy
• Super Marzano

It's time to plant potatoes

By B. Rosie Lerner
Extension Consumer Horticulture Specialist, Purdue University

Chances are that some dedicated gardeners have already tilled their gardens and planted their "seed" potatoes. Some gardeners aim for planting on or around St. Patrick's Day, while some of us will be lucky to have them planted by Mother's Day!

Because our weather can be so unpredictable, it's hard to be any more precise when advising on planting time. Potatoes are considered to be a cool-season crop and can be planted just as soon as the ground has thawed and dried enough to safely work the soil. It is critical to allow the soil to dry adequately. If worked while it's still too wet, soil becomes hard and compacted, leading to long-term frustrations for the eager gardener.

The potato plant can adapt to most types of soil, but must have good drainage to prevent the tubers from rotting before they can be harvested. Choose a sunny location and work in 2-3 pounds of a balanced, low-analysis fertilizer, such as 12-12-12, per 100 square feet to promote vigorous plant growth.

The part of the potato plant that we eat is called a tuber, a technical name that refers to an enlarged modified stem that grows underground. Potato tubers that are used to create a new planting are called seed potatoes. You'll want to start with the best quality seed potatoes, so look for those that are labeled as "certified disease-free" at garden shops and in mail-order catalogs.

To start a new planting, cut the seed potato into pieces so each individual piece has at least one healthy-looking bud (often called an "eye"). That bud will become the shoot of the new plant and, as the stem develops, it also will produce new roots. The piece of tuber attached to the bud provides a source of carbohydrates to sustain the young plant until those new roots and shoots develop. Plant the pieces 2-3 inches deep, space them about 12 inches apart within the row, and leave 24-36 inches between rows.

New tubers that will become this year's harvest generally begin to form sometime in early to mid-summer and continue to grow in size until early fall, as long as adequate moisture, air and nutrients are available.

The tubers can be harvested as "new" potatoes in mid- to late summer, before they reach full size and before the skins start to toughen. New potatoes are tender and tasty, but they don't keep very long. Since the plant must be pulled up to harvest the tubers, yields are generally small.

If you want bigger yields of full-size tubers, it's best to leave the plants until they begin to die back on their own, usually by late summer or early fall. As the plants begin to turn brown, gently lift the tubers with a digging fork and remove them from the plants. If the potatoes are going to be used immediately, no further treatment is needed. However, to be able to store the potatoes for later use, you'll want to allow the tubers to "cure," or air-dry, for 1-2 weeks to allow the skins to thicken and dry.

The biggest challenge for gardeners is finding dark storage conditions at a temperature of 40 F to 45 F. Both light and warmth promote sprouting of the buds. For best results, store only the best quality tubers that are free of cuts, bruises and diseases. Potatoes can be stored from two to nine months, depending on the cultivar and storage conditions.

Landscape Answers: Plants can need water in winter

Q: I've noticed that many of my evergreen shrubs – mostly junipers and boxwoods – are starting to look off-color, sort of brownish or light green. Should I be worried?

A: An off-cast color can be an evergreen plant's response to cold temperatures and chilling winds. The effect is common during heartland winters, but it tends to be mild and not very long-lasting. We don't see actual foliage loss or twig dieback except during unusually cold weather.

But, off-color also can result from dry conditions. Evergreens provide the most obvious clues of winter drought in the landscape because they retain their leaves year-round. In turn, they use and lose more water during winter than the deciduous plants do.

Although evergreens are at greatest risk during cold-weather dry spells, other plants that are likely to suffer from a wintertime moisture shortage include new lawns established the previous fall and any trees or shrubs that are five or fewer years of age.

Fortunately, you can water landscape plants any time the air temperature is above freezing and the soil isn't so frozen that moisture can't soak in. A deep soaking is best, which can easily take several hours. If the temperature drops below freezing after that, however, no plants will be harmed.

Just be sure that your water carrying system is detached from its source, drained and stored again for winter when you're through. You won't need to water again until a long-bladed screwdriver or metal rod, pushed into the ground, stops before it reaches 4 to 6 inches deep. That kind of rod only stops when it reaches thirsty, thirsty soil.

-- Source: Dennis Patton, horticulturist, K-State Research and Extension

Email warning about using cocoa mulch

Spring is mulching season, and this landscaping essential just can't catch a break. First came a Web-based rumor in spring 2006 that termite-infested mulch was being shipped out of the Hurricane Katrina-affected zone and into flower beds across America. That alert proved bogus.

Next to circulate was a fear-inducing e-mail alerting pet owners to the fact that fragrant cocoa mulch can kill dogs that eat it. But there is truth to the claim, according to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA). Some dogs are attracted by the mulch's chocolate aroma, and according to a warning from the ASPCA in 2003, "Eaten by a 50-pound dog, about 2 ounces of cocoa bean mulch may cause gastrointestinal upset; about 4.5 ounces, increased heart rate; about 5.3 ounces, seizures; and over 9 ounces, death."

Cocoa mulch is made from crushed cacao shells, which contain caffeine and theobromine, two compounds to which dogs are particularly sensitive. (These substances are also present in everyday comestibles like baker's chocolate, chocolate bars and candies, colas, and tea.) Depending on the size of the dog and the amount of cocoa mulch it ingests, symptoms can range from stomach upset to cardiac arrest. Dogs metabolize the compounds slowly, so symptoms may take hours or even days to manifest themselves. The ASPCA's advice: Avoid using cocoa mulch anywhere unsupervised dogs roam. Other natural alternatives to cocoa mulch, like cedar chips and pine straw, are typically less toxic but still may contain resins and oils that trigger gastrointestinal disorders in pets that ingest them. And all mulches, including those made from recycled plastics, pose a choking hazard, especially in pooches with less-than-discriminating palates.

If you suspect your dog has eaten cocoa mulch or any other toxic substance, immediately contact your veterinarian or the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435. The center, open 24/7 every day of the year, charges $55 per consultation.

www.ConsumerReports.org

 

Growing orchids at home

Warm your home this winter with the elegant beauty of orchids. Yes, you can grow these amazing plants at home. Learn how by spending a day at Powell Gardens taking their Growing Orchids At Home Classes on January 16, with part 1 from 9am-noon, and part 2 from 1-4pm.

In part 1 your will learn about selecting orchids suitable for the home environment, and you will receive your own orchid to raise at home. Through lecture, demonstration and hands-on experience, you will learn the basic care of orchids with horticulturist and orchid grower Dave Bird of Bird's Botanicals in Blue Springs.

In Part 2 you will further your orchid growing skills in this advanced class. Additional species will be reviewed. You will learn how to grow orchids under lights, and hybridization will be introduced. Plus, receive your own orchid to grow at home! Also taught by Dave Bird.

The classes cost $34 per person, but you must hurry. Registration deadline is January 12. Powell Gardens is a 915-acre botanical garden just east of Kansas City, located on Hwy 50 on the way to Warrensburg, Mo. Call Linda Burton at (816) 697-2600, ext. 307, to register. www.powellgardens.org